Once there was a train
On the route of the old Pontebbana railway today you ride a bicycle. In pedal silence you cross the route once assigned to the train and today among the most beautiful cycle routes in the world.
Bicycle concerts
In the section from Tarvisio to Carnia there are several tunnels, some even several hundred meters long. They are narrow, with a horseshoe section; you can see that they were dug for the train. Arriving by bike from the outside, the first impact is that of darkness since the lighting is there, but it takes a moment for the eyes to adjust.
Ears immediately notice the resonant effect of the walls, which are largely made of stone or concrete or lined with corrugated sheet metal. To trigger the acoustics, one can of course sing, whistle or make voices. Our advice is to buy our tuned bicycle bells and ring them quietly along the tunnels, which is especially effective if you are in company.
Small musical tip if you are not a musician: find your own rhythmic pattern, each your own, and keep it constant as you go through the tunnel from beginning to end. Even if the different rhythms get out of sync, it doesn’t matter. Play unhurriedly, the sounds are more pleasing if they are rarefied, their tails should have time to fade to silence. Improvisation is welcome. As always, the advice is to listen while playing, so as not to miss half the pleasure.
The most beautiful and atmospheric tunnels, even for a trailside stop, are the longer ones, such as the two Ponte di Muro bridges near Pontebba, the one at San Rocco and Rio Rank.
Also noteworthy are the sounds of the wheels on the long iron bridges suspended over the Fella that vaguely bring back the sounds of the train that was there.
Directions
WHERE
On the section of the Alpe Adria cycle route between Camporosso and Carnia.
WHEN
Always open
ACCESSIBILITY AND PRACTICAL ADVICE
The cycle route is well equipped and can also be very busy.
The route is almost all downhill, suitable for families and children. Along the way there are stops for snacks, especially beautiful are the refreshment stops at the old station in Ugovizza and the one in Chiusaforte where you can also get there by car if you wish.
The false flat in the stretch from Tarvisio to Camporosso could be tiring for the elderly, but an electric bike can solve the problem nicely. A small emergency puncture kit is advisable. Tunnels can be dark, so a headlamp and headlamps are recommended.
For those who want to try just the downhill section, which is effortless and also suitable for children, we recommend the MI.CO.TRA, a train with bike transport that takes you uphill to Tarvisio and picks you up in the afternoon at the Carnia station.
Audio
Binaural audio, headphone listening recommended.
Please note: no recording no matter how technically advanced can ever represent the experience of real listening. Topofonie.it is not an archive of sounds, but an invitation to go and listen with our own ears to the world around us. The files given here are for documentary purposes only.
Short excerpts from the “Bicycle Concert for Tuned Bells,” participatory happening of June 16, 2024 in the tunnels between Pontebba and Chiusaforte.
Fond thanks to all who lent themselves to this particular sound happening.
Recording by Claudio Parrino.
Useful links and insights
- On the same route of the Alpe Adria cycle route is also the topof the tunnel under the Pontebba station.
- For the participatory concert held along the cycle route on June 16, 2024, 1000 tuned bicycle bells were produced. Each bell was tuned and assembled by hand and rings a unique and original note. The bells can be found along the route at the Chiusaforte station or at Spazioersetti.
- The Alpe Adria Cyclovia is a unique and extraordinary bicycle route that connects Salzburg to Grado. All information, travel planner, and markings of the various points of interest are available on the official cyclovia website.
- Schedules and reservations for the train with bike transportation are available on the railways’ website dedicated to MI.CO.TRA
- The wikipedia page on the Pontebbana railroad is full of detailed historical and geographical information. A wonderful video on the historic railway line, with full footage of the ascent as seen from the cab of an express 239 “Gondolier” can be seen here.